My Trip to Greece
This past summer, I went to Greece to experience the footsteps of St. Paul. I received something much different than what I first expected.
Initial Thoughts
My initial expectations coming in were both high and low. They were high because I was going to see History come to life: Paul, early Christianity, the Greek philosophers, and a little bit of Greece itself. They were low because I didn’t want to exceed my expectations: I still live in an unrestored world and I had no idea if I was going to be that giddy in the coming experiences. So, I tempered my attitude before I reached my destination. In this way, I could take the joys of the experience as they came along.
I didn’t realize I would cross a Rubicon.
History Come to Life
I listened to the friezes and pediments tell me stories, the icons present history to me, and ancient walls conjugate the past to which they belonged. Ancient tombs whispered echoes of life and long lost kingdoms. I have never seen history so vividly.
Here’s some of the key places that left a mark in my memory.
Mycenae: Paul did not have anything to do with this ancient place, as you’ll see the next places do, but world history of the West sure did. This is where Agamemnon began his journey to destroy Troy (thanks Paris). The Iliad dwelled in this region; it held onto life for others to stumble across its path. I mean, you can’t get more mythological and historical than Mycenae!
Delphi: When we got to Delphi, you could look across the Aegean sea and see Corinth. But Delphi is more than a lookout point, its a beautiful city that has seen more history than most modern political meetings. Nobody did anything of significance (war, political alliances, business decisions, “tattoos”) without going to Delphi to see the oracle. The oracle would inhale some gasses (probably ethylene) from under the foundation of the temple, from a cavern in the side of the mountain, and go into a trance. This was to allow Apollo to control her and give the person seeking answers a fortune (whether the saying was sensical or not didn’t matter, it mostly needed to be interpreted). However, there was something more imporatant to Christianity at Delphi.
This random and obscure letter/tablet, dated 52 AD, is a correspondence to the proconsul of the day: Gallion. You can see why this letter is important when you read Acts 18:12. You will see that Paul was brought before the governor Gallio of Achaia. Hence, we can confirm through this letter that Paul was taken to Delphi and put on trial in 52 AD. One word, from a random letter, and all of history comes flooding out.
Corinth: A port city full of gods and goddesses who were indifferent to their worshippers, and a single man who brought to them the life giving gospel. Paul also went to Corinth and, from the amount of letters he wrote, Paul greatly loved the people of Corinth. You can see the temple of Apollo at the beginning of this article. I wish we had the time to go up to the acropolis to look down on all of Corinth. I had so much fun to see the agora (an ancient public marketplace) and the bema where Paul stood on trial for preaching the gospel.
Beautiful: History holds some of the most beautiful answers of life none of us knew we needed answers to. History and beauty coincide with each other. The iconography depicting history makes it all the more glorious.
The iconography depicts Paul and other disciples baptizing new believers. Above it all, we see the Theophany (appearance of the Trinity in Christ’s baptism) who rains down into these baptismal waters because he sanctified the waters himself. If you look closely, you can see the chaos serpent of the waters being overcome by Christ’s baptism. Outside of the image, directly underneath the iconography of Christ is a baptismal for newborns.
The Monastery in Meteora
We visited the Holy Monastery of Varlaam. This “place,” if it were an appropriate enough word for it, was like stepping into a world beyond me. We were able to visit the church of the monastery. And, yet again, it’s the stunning iconography that grasps my attention. Here’s what I saw:
Men and women flayed, boiled, shot, beheaded, and killed. Above them all, in the dome, was the one who was given all authority on Heaven and Earth: Jesus (The Christ Pantocrator). Christ also sat on His throne, above the holy place entry, in a depiction of the Judgement seat, while there were those on His left and those on His right. Those on His left were cast down into the mouths of demons. Those on His left entered into the kingdom of Heaven. The first one to enter through the gates: the thief to Christ’s right.
Words may symbolize the emotions I felt, but they can never grasp the essence of the moment. Tears welled in my eyes as I gazed upon my holy brothers and sisters. It was solidified for me, something consistently crossing my mind:
Christianity is a religion of suffering.
After this came a further personal understanding of reverence of the Holy Martyrs who gave up everything for the one who is all in all. It was as if Christ Himself stepped down from His throne in his icon and wiped away the dirt covering my eyes. He was there in every instance of suffering.
Christianity is not a religion of suffering for the sake of suffering. Suffering pierces those who seek love: love of God, fellow man, and truth. Martyrs do not become martyrs because they seek martyrdom; men and women become martyrs because they love God and man. The world hates those who love Him because they do not want their works to come to light. But, there is nothing to fear. He has overcome the world through His suffering.
Final Thoughts
If I had a chance to go back to Greece, I would take it within a heartbeat. Greece is beautiful. Rich in history and much more. If you ever have a chance to go, take it.
“Glory to the Father and to the Son and to the Holy Spirit, both now and ever, and unto ages of ages. Amen.” May God Bless you.
